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VEGETABLE garden

In your vegetable garden during December and January

Vegetable garden in winter

Winter is truly here as we enter the festive months of December and January. In the vegetable garden this is a time of rest, for the plants anyway! Gardeners however, can turn their attention to all those unfinished jobs that were pushed aside during the busy sowing and harvesting period of the summer. Rainy days will fill our water butts ready for the summer, and garlic cloves can still be planted until February.

Things to do in the vegetable garden

• 
  Start collecting plastic bottles
  for cloches in the spring

• Get organised for the spring and start collecting plastic bottles for cloches. The sawn-off plastic bottles will protect individual young plants from slug damage. Be sure not to trap a slug inside.

• If you don’t already have one or need more, build a new compost bin. Site it on bare earth or grass and make sure it is accessible for adding, removing and turning the material. Avoid using tanalised or pressure treated wood if building a bin from scratch.
  Garden Organic members can find more information online in our organic factsheets:

  • Build a compost bin
  • How to make compost
  • Garden wood preservatives

• Sheds and fences may need repairing and painting to protect them over the coming winter months. Always choose a safe preservative. The Organic Gardening Catalogue sells Procol Fencecote, a non-toxic and non-flammable water-based wood protection

• Watch out for chickweed which can soon overwhelm winter salads and other plants, particularly on rich soils. As it can grow, flower and ripen seed all year round it is not a weed to be ignored. Hoe off seedlings, but pull up anything larger as the plants can root again in wet weather.

• Time to give those hard-working tools some care and attention. Scrub spades, forks and hoes with hot water, then dry thoroughly and wipe over with an oiled cloth to prevent rusting. Blades can be sharpened, but don�t overdo it!

• Insulate worm bins for the winter to keep worms active and producing compost. 

• 
  Start a compost trench

• Start a compost trench - Bury kitchen waste at about a spade�s depth, preferably where the runner beans will grow next year. Cover the waste with soil, as soon as you add it, to prevent foxes or other animals from scavenging.

• Allotments - If you need more space for growing vegetables, now is a good time to find an allotment. Lists of allotment sites should be available from a local library or the council – and an increasing number now have a web site.

  If you are not quite sure how to get started, you could join up to one of our courses for a detailed explanation by Sally Cunningham, the former deputy Head Gardener at Garden Organic Ryton.

  Sally is running a series of six half day courses entitled 'Starting an organic allotment', starting on 26th February. Places are limited so get your name on the list by calling our bookings team on (024) 7621 7717 See the course list here

• Crop rotation and seed buying - The short days in winter provide the ideal excuse to sit in the warmth and start planning for next season.

  
  
• 
  Leaves rot down best
  in an open container

• When raking up leaves to make leafmould, be careful there are no hedgehogs hiding underneath; if you do come across one leave it undisturbed until the spring.

• Plant onion sets and garlic if the weather is still mild enough.
• If you want to grow onions from seed, now is the time to plant them as they require a long growing season. Germinate the seeds on a warm window sill for planting out in March.
• You can start forcing rhubarb, seakale and chicory in January. Rhubarb is forced by placing an up-turned bucket/pot over the plant to exclude light. The warmer the environment the quicker it will grow so place manure or straw over the top to encourage juicy, sweet shoots. Seakale is forced the same way, only there is no need for extra warmth.
• Chicory is forced differently. The chicory roots should be lifted from the ground, re-potted in normal compost and then placed in a dark, warm place (10-14°C / 50-57°F) with an upturned pot over them. The sweet chicons will be ready for late winter salads in about 4-6 weeks.

• Check stored crops regularly. Remove immediately anything showing signs of decay, to prevent rots from spreading. Some varieties of potato will begin to sprout sooner than others – so if one variety shows signs of sprouting, eat it up quickly.

• 
  Potatoes chitting

• Buy your seed potatoes in January if you haven't already got them, or come to Potato Day. Store the tubers in a light, cool, frost-free spot and leave them to sprout. This is known as chitting. Egg boxes make good chitting trays so start saving them now. Make sure you put the tubers with the 'eye' end - where the sprouts will grow from - upwards.

• Order in manure ready to dig-in in the spring. Stack the manure in a position where it can remain undisturbed for six months to allow for any unwanted pollutants to break down. Cover with a waterproof sheet.

• Lift Celery as required in December. Any plants left in the ground can be covered with a thick layer of straw to protect them from winter frost.

• Stake and earth up any Brussels sprouts that are looking a bit wayward and likely to be blown over in harsh weather. Loose soil around the roots leads to Brussels sprouts not hearting up properly.

Why not start a 'Hot Bed'?

Hot beds were very popular in Victorian times. Once set up, they can be used to grow salad crops in winter, by getting a head-start on seed sowing in the spring (by up to a month), and for growing melons and any of the Cucurbitaceae family in the summer. A hot bed provides bottom heat, using manure rather than electricity as the heat source, thus speeding up plant growth of seedlings and tender plants.

A hot bed consists of two main layers:

• The heat source: Fresh strawy manure � in a layer 60-90cm deep (after treading). As the manure breaks down, it generates heat. Tread it down well to compact it, ensuring a more even release of heat.
• The growing medium: A mixture of top soil and garden compost (ratio of 1:1) � this is placed on top of the manure in a layer 20cm-30cm thick.

Sowing and Planting

Keep on sowing

• 
  Garlic drying

• Garlic

  Thermidrome is recommended for autumn/early winter plantings and Printanor is suited to late winter planting. Printanor can also be planted in early spring, but will give much better yields if it goes through a cold period over winter.

Sowing indoors

• If you have suitable space, make some early sowings in trays. Try lettuce, summer cabbage and cauliflowers, plus round varieties of carrots, spinach, salad onions and turnips. Germination temperatures of around 13 °C are adequate so a windowsill is fine to get these seeds going. Seedlings will need to be pricked out in trays and potted on before putting out under cloches or in cold frames in February.

• 
  Greenhouse tomatoes

• Tomatoes can be sown, for growing on in a heated greenhouse, as early as January. Tomato cultivars are available specifically for growing under cover, for example, Shirley F1 (medium size) and F1 Aromata (large).

• Heated propagator - If you are wondering what to buy a keen gardener for Christmas, or need ideas for spending your Christmas money, then a heated propagator could be just the answer. A little ‘bottom’ heat is just what is needed to give seeds a start, and help avoid damping off and other seedling diseases. 

What you could be eating now

• Fresh or from 'natural' storage

  Artichoke, Jerusalem Beetroot Brussels sprouts Cabbage - winter Carrots Celeriac Celery Chard Chicory Claytonia/ Winter purslane Corn salad/ Lambs lettuce Garlic Endive Kale Kohl rabi

  Leek Lettuce Onions Oriental greens, such as Mizuna Parsley Parsnip Potatoes Pumpkin Rocket Salsify Spinach Sprouting broccoli Turnip - main crop Swede

Garden friends

• 
  Bird box

• Clear out bird boxes ready for spring. Put out food for birds - seed, nut and fat mixtures will provide the ideal diet; they will reward you by eating pests such as aphids, caterpillars, slugs and snails. And remember to provide a supply of clean water at all times; thaw it with warm water when necessary.

Pest and disease watch

There are not many pests around in the garden at this time of year. Winter soil cultivation will help to expose soil dwelling pests to frost and predators.

• Do not add any plant material infected with soil borne diseases to your compost heap when doing the final clean up. This will put a stop to the spread of disease through your compost the following year. 
• Keep an eye on vegetables in store. Regularly inspect and remove any diseased or damaged individuals before problems can spread. Use mouse controls if the little devils are a problem.
• 
  Whitefly on brassica
  underleaf

• Keep an eye out for whitefly and aphids on Brussels sprouts and other winter brassicas.

  See our Organic factsheets Cabbage Whitefly and Cabbage Aphids for more information on prevention and control of these pests.
• Ensure brassicas and any other vulnerable crops are protected from pigeons by using fleece. Build a frame over the crop and line it with fleece to keep them off.

In your HERB garden during December and January

Fennel in winter

The year is entering its coldest phase and December brings some sharp frosts. Most plants are dormant, surviving the winter on stored energy made during the growing seasons, whilst some plants will make new growth during milder spells and some protection from cloches will enable you to continue harvesting. Review what has done well this year and spend some time planning new ideas and plantings for next year.

For a great way to get inspiration for the herb garden during the cold months, look through the gardening magazines and order as many herb catalogues as you can. 

Bring tender herbs like this
scented pelargonium indoors
for the winter


Remove fallen leaves
from your plants

Things to do this month

• Protect planters, especially terracotta planters with bubble-wrap or hessian or even old jumpers. The cold temperatures and frost can easily penetrate containers, freezing the soil and plant roots and killing all but the most robust plants.

• Protect parsley, buckler leaved sorrel and chervil with cloches.

• Hand-pick fallen leaves from the herb bed and other debris - that may be harbouring over-wintering pests.

• Reduce watering of plants in containers outdoors, but do not allow to totally dry out.

• Check plants for pests and fungal diseases. Remove aphids as soon as they appear on plants in the greenhouse or on the window-ledge. Pick off any leaves showing signs of browning or fungal infection.

• Check any seed you have saved, and remove any that are rotting.

Planning a new herb garden

This is the ideal time of year for planning a new herb garden. Choose a sunny and reasonably sheltered area of your garden. All the best and easiest to maintain gardens start with excellent preparation and herb gardens are no exception. Start by measuring the space accurately, then sit down somewhere warm and cosy with a cup of herbal tea, paper, pencil and crayons and start planning. Inspirational books should be available from your local library or bookshop. The internet is another useful resource - The National Herb Centre and The Herb Society have excellent websites.

• Draw a scale diagram of the space, including access.
• Make a list of all the plants you’d like to include. Then plan the beds and place the plants in them. Consult a good book such as The New Book of Herbs by Jekka McVicar, available from The Organic Gardening Catalogue for the final size of your plants.
• Remember to include seating, at the height of summer this will be one of your favourite spots in the garden – consider stone, wood (local if possible, FSC certified at least) or a living herb seat such as thyme or chamomile.
• If you plan to include any pots, think about their winter care. Clay pots should be guaranteed frost-proof by your supplier, if they are not, they will need to be kept somewhere frost-free for the winter to prevent them from cracking. Plastic pots are lighter to move but not as attractive. Plants in pots (even frost-proof pots) need their roots protecting over winter – see Things to do this month for more details.
• Remember that many herbs, such as rosemary, lavender and thyme, don’t like to have their feet wet over winter. If you have a waterlogged soil, plan some raised beds and dig in horticultural grit before planting, or use pots for these herbs. Free-draining, light soils are ideal for these aromatic Mediterranean plants.
• To make clearing and weeding the ground easier when you start to plant next season, make a start as soon as the weather is suitable by removing weeds and any unwanted plants now. Lay a light excluding mulch such as cardboard or thick layers of newspaper weighed down with old bricks, straw or grass cuttings.

Flavour from the garden in December & January

Herbs are very versatile. The following herbs can provide fresh flavours for the pot all through the winter

• 
  Bay leaves are available
  all winter

• Bay (Laurus nobilis) Perennial

  Bay leaves are a delicious addition to soups and stews. Dried leaves can be added to vinegars for a welcome flavouring. It is also an essential ingredient in bouquet garni. Bay leaves help to promote good digestion, particularly of meat. A bay leaf in jars of flour, or in pantries, helps to deter weevils.

  Bay trees make very attractive container plants. If temperatures are likely to drop below -5º C (25º F) bring plants into the greenhouse or conservatory.

• Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) Annual

  This pretty fern-like herb provides a tasty aniseed flavour for cheese and egg dishes. Chervil can also be used as a substitute for parsley. As the leaves lose their flavour quickly, add to dishes just before serving. Protect with cloches in colder regions to maintain growth

• Marjoram (Origanum sp.) Perennial

  There are several different species of marjoram. Some are hardy, wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare) and French marjoram (O. onites) for example. These will provide evergreen ground cover in the herb garden and delicious leaves for use throughout the year. Others, such as sweet marjoram (O. marjorana), are half-hardy and will not survive winter outdoors in colder, wetter areas. For this reason they are usually treated as an annual plant.

  All species of marjoram will grow well and look lovely in a container. Small pots can be placed on the window ledge for easy picking!
• 
  Parsley
  
  
  Rosemary
  
  
  Sage 'Tricolour'

• Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) Biennial

  This well-known and widely-used herb is a great favourite for salads and soups, as well as sauces. It is an essential ingredient in bouquet garni and is a natural breath freshener. Protect the plant throughout the winter with a cloche for a constant supply.

• Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Perennial

  Rosemary is a beautiful evergreen herb that is frost hardy to around -5ºC. This herb can be kept clipped as an edging plant or hedge. It will provide leaves for fresh use throughout the year. Add sprigs of rosemary to soups and casseroles or add to roasting potatoes. This herb is the traditional accompaniment for lamb. When roasting, cut slits into the surface of the meat and tuck in sprigs of rosemary.

  Rosemary tea can be used as a mouthwash for bad breath.

• Sage (Salvia sp.) Perennial
  There are many aromatic sage plants suitable for the herb garden. They provide evergreen leaves for use fresh all year round, some with purple, white, gold and pink splashes. Hardy sages are ideal for container growing, although they will need some protection in winter. A delicious addition to stuffing and nut roasts as well as salads. Sage tea can be used to remedy sore throats - gargle with a warm infusion of this herb.

  Take cuttings from sage every 3-4 years as plants become woody and sprawling.

• Thyme (Thymus spp.) Perennial

  Thymes provide a useful evergreen or gold ground cover, and fresh leaves, all year round. Some thymes have a citrus flavour, suitable for vinegars and oils. As with sage, plants should be replaced every 3-4 years as they become woody and lose flavour. Thyme is an essential ingredient in bouquet garni.

  The summer flowers of this herb are very popular with bees and other beneficial insects. Thyme grows well in a container, requiring very low nutrient levels in the growing medium.

Bouquet Garni

Bouquet garni is the traditional way to introduce the flavour of herbs to winter stews and casseroles.

You will need:
  1 bunch of parsley
  3 sprigs of thyme
  2-3 bay leaves

Tie the herbs together using a length of string. Alternatively, place together in a small muslin bag and tie up the top. The string will allow you to remove the herbs from the stew or casserole at the end of the cooking time. Add the bouquet garni at the beginning of cooking and remove after around 2 hours. This is a basic recipe – other herbs can be used according to personal taste. Lemon balm and lemon thyme are delicious with poultry dishes, fennel and sweet marjoram for fish dishes.

Sage and onion stuffing

No packet of stuffing can match the home-made variety and it’s surprisingly simple to make.
You will need:

• 1 medium white onion
• about 50g of breadcrumbs
• a handful of fresh sage, finely chopped
• 1 egg, beaten
• a knob of butter
• salt and pepper to taste

Boil the finely chopped onion in a little water for 10 minutes, then drain. Mix all the ingredients together and use to stuff a bird or bake separately in a greased dish, 180 degrees Centigrade for 20-30 minutes until golden brown.

Add evergreen herbs to
your holly decorations
this festive season

Add more or less sage according to taste. You can also experiment with nutmeg, dried chillis, thyme, lemon balm and any other herbs you may have available, fresh or dried.

Decorating the house for Yuletide

It is traditional at Winter Solstice or Christmas, to bring evergreens into the house for decorations. Include evergreen herbs such as rosemary, myrtle, bay and winter savory in your winter decorations, alongside the holly, ivy and mistletoe, to add a delicious scent to the air.

The Garden This Month

In your ornamental garden during January

As the days shorten up to the winter Solstice there is even less daylight left to spend in the garden. Try to spend this precious time wisely, fitting in those maintenance jobs and pruning and tidying up plants on fences and walls.

Winter in the garden

When it is too cold and wet for working in the garden, curl up by the fire with your catalogues - dreaming of the spring to come. order early for next year.

Things to do in December and January

• Tidy your shed and sort out your seed trays and pots. This will get you off to a good start in February and March when it is time to start sowing annuals and bedding plants.
• Insulate outside taps if not done earlier.
• Protect pots outside from freezing by wrapping them with bubble wrap plastic or hessian sack lined with straw, or simply cluster them all together in a sheltered corner on the patio or close to your house, this really helps to protect the roots against the frost.
• At the beginning of the month cut a few shoots from Jasminium nudiflorum, Winter jasmine. Put them in water and keep in a cool place indoors. The buds will begin to open and scented flowers can be used to add to Christmas table decorations.
• Continue to rake up leaves from lawns to be composted or placed in a leafmould container. Fallen leaves on soil can be left as mulch; the worms will take them down into the soil for you.
• January is a good time to order summer flowering bulbs by mail as there will be a larger selection. Think about trying something new and unusual such as Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum) or pineapple lily (Eucomis bicolour).
• This winter period is also a good time to take stock of your garden and think about redesigning certain areas that maybe in need of a re-vamp or change. This may mean disposing of some older, more mature plants to make way for new young plants next spring.
  During bad weather, don't forget about the plants outdoors

• Dislodge snow from trees and shrubs to prevent damage to branches.

• 
  Cotoneaster
  
  
  Pyracantha 'Orange Glow'

• Check that newly planted trees and shrubs have not been loosened after heavy frosts and winter winds. Replace the soil if necessary and firm them in.

• Looking good now are Cotoneaster and Pyracantha, both producing colourful berries through December and January; providing a valuable food source for birds over the winter months.

• Brighten up the festive period, a few days before the Solstice or Christmas cut overgrown evergreen shrubs back to provide material to make beautiful natural decorations, like wall hangings and garlands.

  Our organic factsheet, Shrubs and climbers for the wildlife garden, has information on more shrubs to plant.
  

Lawn care

• Try to stay off your lawn if it is wet or frosted . On dryer milder days, if you haven't already done so, rake and spike your lawn, The raking really helps get rid of old thatch and the spiking lets air get to the roots. This is particularly useful if you have any compacted areas or grass paths. It�s also a vigorous activity so will keep you nice and warm!
• Clean and service your mower, oil and grease moving parts that need it and sharpen or replace worn blades or cutters. You will need your mower in tip top condition come the spring when the grass starts growing again.
• Continue to rake up leaves from lawns to be composted or placed in a leaf mould container. Matted leaves left on the lawn can cause dead patches by the spring as light is cut off from the plants below.

Greenhouse

• If you haven't already done so, thoroughly clean the greenhouse, inside and out.

• To avoid pests and diseases over-wintering, remove all plant debris and burn a sulphur candle.

• 
  Insulate the greenhouse

• Wash down glass and staging using a safe disinfectant such as Citrox.

  Both Citrox and sulphur candles are available from The Organic Gardening Catalogue

• If you have a power washer the cleaning job will be very easy, but remember to do this on a sunny day and remove plants before you start, to ensure that the spray does not damage them. Take extra care around any plants grown directly in the greenhouse.

• If you have plants over-wintering in the greenhouse, they will need the added protection of 'bubble wrap' to insulate the glass. Also keep some cut lengths of fleece to hand to cover vulnerable plants on cold nights.

Ponds

• If you are feeling brave then you can remove your pond pump for a clean and service. Ponds are best left alone at this time of year as the frogs and other creatures are hibernating and should not be disturbed.

What to plant in December and January

It will be fine to plant on the days when there is no frost, and there should be quite a few as the winters get more and more mild. There are many plants that are best planted in the dormant season.

• Plant hedges from bare root trees and shrubs at this time of year. There are many types of trees to use, such as beech (Fagus), hazel (Corylus), hawthorn (Crataegus), blackthorn (Prunus), elder (Sambucus), birch (Betula), dogwoods (Cornus), holly (Ilex)*, dog rose (Rosa), privet (Ligustrum)*, and the list goes on.
  * rarely available as bare root
• Most perennial plants are fine to plant all winter but avoid planting grasses and bamboos as they only grow new roots in late spring to early summer and will just sulk all winter and could die.
• Plant new shrubs or move any smaller deciduous shrubs to new locations, water in well and mulch.
• It's not to late to plant hardy summer flowering bulbs like Alliums for a good show later in the year.

Make new plants

Hardwood cuttings

• When the leaves have fallen from deciduous shrubs, now is the time to take hardwood cuttings. Follow these easy steps to increase your shrub displays. Suitable shrubs include: Cornus, Salix (willow), Buddleja, Philadelphus, Prunus, Sambucus, Rosa, Berberis, Magnolia and Hydrangea.

Root cuttings

• Root cuttings are easy to take and are a reliable way of propagating many herbaceous perennial plants e.g. Papaver orientale, Verbascum spp, Acanthus and Phlox.
• Root cuttings are best taken in the winter from November to March. You can find further details of the root cuttings technique here.

Easy Perennials

Iris unguicularis


Skimmia japonica


Eranthis hyemalis


Prunus serrula


Chimonanthus praecox

This section gives you our suggestions of perennial plants that will look good or are looking good now, are easy to grow and fairly free of pest and disease, making them a good bet for an organic garden.

Even at this time of year there are some beautiful flowers to be found in the garden, from delicate clusters on the bare stems of shrubs to bright bulbs which can be brought in to brighten the home at Christmas. This is also the time of year when coloured barks and stems can be seen at their best.

• Iris unguicularis
  This Iris has lovely violet and yellow flowers amid a mass of dense foliage. They will begin flowering at the start of the year and will bring some much needed cheer in these dark days.

• Skimmia japonica subsp. Reevesiana
  This subspecies of Skimmia japonica is a more reliable producer of berries than its parent. The fruits are a vibrant red and will remain on the plants from the autumn to the spring if the birds do not eat them.

• Eranthis hyemalis
  The Winter Aconite is a star plant for a shady area in the winter. Grow them under trees in drifts mixed with snowdrops for a stunning effect. Alternatively, grow them in pots dressed with gravel for a bright yellow display near the house.

• Prunus serrula
  It is only when winter comes and the bare trunk and branches of this ornamental cherry are fully exposed, that their beauty can be fully appreciated. The glossy, copper-bronze, peeling bark makes an excellent focal point in the garden in December and January.

• Chimonanthus praecox
  This shrub, also known as Wintersweet, can be grown free-standing or trained against a wall. The small yellow flowers will fill your garden with a sweet fragrance to give you that added encouragement to get out into your garden despite the cold weather.

Pest & disease watch

• 
  Honey fungus

• You may have been devastated by the sight of clumps of honey-coloured toadstools in the garden, fearing an attack of the dreaded disease honey fungus. Honey fungus (Armillaria spp) can be a real problem, but not all Armillaria species are harmful to plants. The presence of the toadstools, or the typical black 'bootlaces' in the soil is not necessarily sounding the death knell for your trees and shrubs.

  Our organic factsheet on Honey fungus tells all.
  
  Access to this factsheet requires members' password.
  Find out more about Garden Organic membership

• Pests - Although they may not be clearly visible, many are hiding in the garden at this time of year. Check for slugs and snails hiding under pots, old bricks or stones. Winter digging will expose their eggs, which will be a welcome feast for the birds.

What to do in your fruit garden during December and January

If you are thinking that over the next few months there is little to do in your fruit garden... well think again! The coming months give you a great opportunity to rethink your planting and make any structural changes to the fruit bushes and trees growing in your garden.

Looking through to the Orchard at Garden Organic Ryton
Pruning a redcurrant	Sucker removal from the whitecurrant variety 'White Versailles'

Things to do in December

• Thoroughly clean and oil all of those hard worked tools so they’re fit for another years toil in the fruit garden. Give them a good scrub with some hot soapy water and leave them to dry thoroughly before wiping over with an oily rag to stop them going rusty.

• Complete picking very late-maturing apples, before the hard frosts come.

• Plant new fruit when the soil conditions are suitable. If the soil is too wet and you have bare-rooted plants bundled together, then loosen the bundles and remove the packing material. Next heel (temporarily plant) the plants in at a 45 degree angle. If the soil is frozen, keep the plants in a cool, frost-free place. Ensure roots do not dry out and plant as soon as possible.

   

• When a fruit tree or bush is replaced with another of the same type on the same site it may fail to grow well, due to a condition known as 'specific replant disease'. Soft fruit can also suffer from various pests and diseases that persist in the soil - so always choose a new site for replanting fruit.

  If you have no option of planting on a new site, replant disease can be lessened by backfilling the hole with fresh soil.
  Further protection against replant disease is offered by mycorrhizal fungi, sold as 'RootGrow'. This product can increase plants' resistance to soil-borne disease and promote root growth, water retention and beneficial organisms. 

• Prune apples, pears, and bush and cane fruits. Continue pruning except in hard freezing conditions. Deal with the young trees first, and then the older ones. Inspect apples and pears for canker and prune or pare out lesions on larger branches and trunks. Collect up healthy prunings and shred them before composting. Alternatively, pile them up in an out-of-the-way corner of the garden and leave the pile to rot for a few years, where it will make a great habitat for all sorts of creatures.

• If your trees/bushes didn’t produce much fruit this year have a think about your cultural methods.

  1. If they are early flowering varieties, do they need protection from the frost? Some early varieties of cherry as well as peaches and apricots may need a covering of fleece for protection.
  2. Do they need a pollination partner? Even self-fertile varieties will fruit better if they are cross-pollinated. 
  3. Are there enough beneficial insects for pollination? Consider planting insect attracting plants to encourage bees, wasps, flies, moths and butterflies. Also consider shelterbelts if your site is particularly windy.
     Garden Organic members can view our factsheet 'Attracting beneficial insects' for more information.

• Have a go at growing blueberries

  
  A healthy crop of blueberries

  Blueberries are full of vitamins and minerals and add a bit of variety to the fruit garden. Apart from some inevitable losses of berries to birds, which can be dealt with by covering them with horticultural netting, blueberries are incredibly pest and disease free. The main thing to bear in mind when planting blueberries is the soil pH. This is critical, as most varieties require a very acid soil (pH4.5-5.5). The good news is there are new varieties that are not so particular about soil pH; both Patriot and Hardyblue fit into this category. Remember to buy a pollination partner if you want lots of fruit (up to 2.5kg / 4.5-11lb per plant)

  Visit www.dorset-blueberry.co.uk and our Frequently Asked Questions section for more information on growing, and ideas on using this tasty fruit.

• Untie laterals on spindle bush apple trees, which have 'set' at the required angle. These lower, longer branches set at nearly horizontal angles receive more sunlight and are more fruitful and less vigorous.

• Check the condition of all stakes, supports, ties and rabbit guards for trees. Look for wind rocking or constriction. If this has happened, replace stakes and renew ties.

• 
  Protection against leaf curl
  
  
  Well-trained grape vine

• Protect fan trained peaches and nectarines against the disfiguring fungal disease, peach leaf curl. Erect a polythene cover to protect against rain splash that spreads the overwintering spores onto leaf buds.

• Insulate pots of container-grown fruit to protect roots from the worst of the winter weather. Pile straw, wood chips, leaves, or sawdust around the pots and hold in place using horticultural fleece or landscaping fabric.

• Grape vines are dormant now so it is the ideal time to prune.

  • Prune all the laterals (side shoots made in one season that have fruited this year) back to two or three buds, leaving long stumpy main stems. Cut these back if they are overgrown.
  • Don't be scared if you think this pruning is ruthless. Vines do need to be kept in check as they produce a lot of vigorous growth.
  • New shoots growing from the stumpy main stems will grow long and bear fruit all in one season next year.

• Cuttings can be struck from vine prunings.

  • Make each cutting about 3cm (1 ½ in) long, having one 'eye' or bud.
  • On the opposite side to the eye, make a shallow, sloping cut just underneath the bud.
  • Lay the cutting horizontally with the bud facing upwards into a small pot of cutting compost, lightly covered.
  • Keep in a propagator at 24°C (75°F) until roots have formed.
  • After rooting gradually acclimatise the young plant to cooler conditions and plant in the greenhouse or outside in the spring.
• Propagate whitecurrants, redcurrants, blackcurrants and gooseberries by taking hardwood cuttings in December.
  Simply cut just above a bud on the parent plants, about 30cm long. Trim the base and remove top soft growth. Take your spade and cut a slit trench into available ground. Place the cuttings in a line about 20cm down (two-thirds their length) and firm in. They can be transplanted into their permanent positions next autumn or leave for an additional year for further root development. Make sure all plants used for propagation are pest and disease free.

Things to do in January

• 
  Sow alpine strawberry seeds

• Sow alpine strawberry seeds. Sow at 20�C (68�F). Germination may take a few weeks, keep the compost moist at all times. Transplant the seedlings when large enough to handle. Finally, plant the young strawberry plants in their permanent position in April. The variety called 'Golden Alexandra' is best grown from seed. It provides excellent ground cover and fruits over a long period.

• Enjoy early strawberries by placing cloches over the plants. Remember to take the covers off on warmer days in spring to ensure flowers are pollinated by insects.

• Mulch cobnuts and filberts with well-rotted garden compost.

• Renovation of old or neglected fruit trees can be done at this time of year.

  Garden Organic members can view our organic 'how to' guide to renovating old trees and orchards for more information

• Do not be tempted to prune the stone fruits (Apricots, cherries, damsons greengages, nectarines, peaches and plums) until May when risk of silver leaf infection is passed.

Pest and disease watch

• Look out for signs of canker and prune out all dead, diseased or dying branches from apple and pear, leaving plum and cherry until next summer to reduce the likelihood of contamination by silver leaf disease.

• Check all stored fruit and remove any that are affected by pest and disease problems. If left to fester these will affect the rest of the store. Make sure bags are tied securely and place mouse traps near stores if necessary. Any unwanted fruits can be left out for the birds.

• Ensure any mummified fruits resulting from brown rot are removed from trees to avoid spreading the fungus to next year’s crop.

• 
  Apple tree bark gnawed by rabbits

• Check grease bands are still sticky and in place around fruit trees and stakes. If not replace them to give control against winter moth, plum fruit moth and March moth. Also check rabbit guards as rabbits may gnaw at bark when other food sources are scarce.

  Garden Organic members can see our organic factsheets Apple tree pest & disease management and Plum tree pest & disease management for more information.
  
  
• 
  Encourage birds by
  providing winter food

• Protect fruit bushes and canes with fleece or netting to stop birds damaging the developing buds.

• Entice birds to feed on aphids and other pests by hanging fat in trees or suspend from bamboo canes set among fruit bushes and canes. Fat balls and seeds high in protein are the best winter warmers for our native winter birds. Remember to keep bird feeders topped up and provide a source of unfrozen water for the birds to drink.